Mar 28 2008
Review: The Omnivore’s Dilemma - Part I: Corn
Omnivore’s Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals
by Michael Pollan
Part I: Corn
Pollan’s book, is at its core, about the disconnect that the modern human being experiences from the food they eat. Or more specifically, the disconnect about where that food comes from. The title of the book (as he explains in the introduction) comes from the idea that herbivores mostly have it easy. The koala bear, he says, knows that if the green thing they’re eating has the characteristics of eucalyptus, in the mouth it goes. But the omnivore has a much broader array of choices, which makes it harder for the omnivore to determine what is good to eat (is this poisonous? Did I feel good after eating this last time?). And in modern Western society, the industry that has sprung up around food has made it extremely hard to determine what foods, exactly, went into whatever you are eating out of that package.
The book is broken down into 3 sections, where he attempts to follow the 3 major food chains that make up our choices - industrial, organic, and alternative.
Part I: Corn
This is both an amazing and scary section all at once. He moves through the history of corn as a plant and follows it from the beginnings in a farm to a grain elevator, a feedlot, a processing plant. and eventually a meal. What is amazing is how corn has basically taken over agriculture as we know it and due to a variety of factors (government subsidies, processing, hybrid corn’s ability to create high yield) we have a huge corn surplus in America. And since the surplus has to go somewhere, it does - low quality “commodity corn” goes to feeding cattle (which normally are grass fed) and it goes to processing, where it gets turned into hundreds of different things that we ingest in pretty every food that comes from the supermarket that isn’t in the produce aisle.
High fructose corn syrup is in soda (the primary ingredient, in fact) and hundreds to thousands of other products (check out a huge list of brand name products with HFCS in it). Dextrose, lecithin, corn starch and dozens of other ingredients that are regularly listed on labels - in fact, he says the larger the ingredient list the more it will be made of corn byproducts. At the end of the chapter, after he and his family ate a meal from McDonald’s, he takes a duplicate meal to a lab with a mass spectrometer. It turns out that corn’s greatest strength - it’s ability to make C-4 carbon compounds - also allows it to be easily tracked via spectrometer. And as it turns out, the meal from McDonald’s is mostly corn.
- Soda (100%),
- Milk shake (78%),
- Salad dressing (65%),
- “Chicken” nuggets (56%)
- Cheeseburger (52%),
- French fries (23%).
As he puts it, we have become “corn’s koala” - the creature that subsists solely on corn in one form or another. It is a really fascinating chapter and it makes me really wonder how, when huge industries and everything we eat revolves around corn, how we can manage to try and escape from it.
Part II: Grass coming soon.


Voyage of the Turtle: In Pursuit of the Earth’s Last Dinosaur