Omnivore’s Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals
by Michael Pollan
Part II: Grass
Part II actually takes Pollan down two separate paths for two different meals. First is discovering what Big Organic is all about, and then second is a trip to a small scale completely sustainable farm (whose owner refers to himself as a “grass farmer”).
Pollan thinks about shopping in places like Whole Foods is the equivalent of “supermarket pastoral” - a quality story attached to each piece of meat and vegetable to allow us to create a picture in our mind of how that free-range chicken lived a wonderful life before being brought to our plate. But in reality, the way Big Organic works is not tremendously different from regular industrial farms. The major difference is that they don’t use pesticides. But chickens, for example, are kept in the exact same condition as industrial farms, except that the farmers can’t use antibiotics, making the whole system even less stable. “Free range” means they have a door open to a small yard that the chickens never go out into (and the owners, afraid of chickens getting sick, pray that they never use).
Pollan goes on to explore the history of the organic movement, straight from its roots in hippiedom. Now organic foods gotten at the supermarket are mostly produced by two extremely large companies (Cascadian Farm and Earthbound Farms) or are subbrands of the industrial food system. Pollan asks the question, “Is Organic better?” and concludes you have to ask the question, “Better for what?” If you’re asking about our health, the answer is “probably, but not necessarily”. The lack of pesticides can’t be a bad thing, but there have been no real tests to prove that the small doses of pesticides that we intake with non-organics is affecting us in any way. If you’re asking about the environment, the lack of pesticides is a good thing…but there’s a large carbon footprint involved with all the fuel used to transport this organic food across the globe. In short, the industrial organic movement, by its very nature, is a contradiction in terms.
Pollan then goes to Polyface Farms, in the Shenandoah Valley in Virginia. Polyface is run by Joel Salatin. Salatin is a fanatic. Not that is a bad thing in this case. But he lives and breathes the idea of a sustainable farm. He considers himself a grass farmer, by which he means that his primary goal is to make sure the grass at his farm is growing well - everything else flows from that. His cows are moved from pasture to pasture daily, getting only one chance to eat a particular set of grass a day. His chickens follow the cows two days later, eating grass destroying grubs and fertilizing the grass with their manure. The farm is also completely transparent - you can come by and watch your chickens being slaughtered - that allows you to know how your chickens were raised. He also only sells locally. Like I said, he lives it and breathes the environment where a lot of people just talk it.
This part of the book was the most fascinating to me, by far. I can’t do the section on Polyface Farms justice, honestly. It made me want to drive to Virginia to pick up some chicken and beef from the farm. It’s a complex, interesting farm and I highly recommend picking up the book, if for no other reason to read this section.
Next: Part III - The Forest
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